![]() I wanted to avoid drilling holes, if possible, but needed to get the data cable from this box to inside the I had read of three ideas (using a vacant Alde vent hole, the frig vent hole, and the same wiring hole for wire bundle from distribution box). Here you can see where I mounted the box vertically on the tub wall, with the cables hanging out from the bottom end and connecting to the battery, except for the data cable which runs inside to the wall-mounted display.Ĭloser view of the junction box with shunt. I also added some dielectric grease in the holes at the ends of the fuse holder on the shunt's positive battery lead & to its screw threads, then wrapped those ends in electrical tape to help prevent corrosion around the fuse contacts. I avoided coating any electrical contacts, such as inside the RJ-12 socket or positive battery power & temperature sensor lead sockets. I later temporarily removed & replaced the shunt, so I could coat any soldered connections on the shunt's circuit board with a waterproofing "conformal silicone" coating to help prevent corrosion from any condensation. Also purchased separately was the junction box for mounting the shunt. ![]() ( ) and the temp sensor includes a second power wire & may not be included unless listed by the seller. The negative battery cable is not included, RJ-45 cables, such as Ethernet cables & connectors use 4 pairs of wires with 8 contacts on the connector. Included with the BMV-712, but not shown, is a small wall-mounted display & control unit that connects to the coil of data cable, which BTW is an RJ12 cable with 3 twisted wire pairs (not RJ45 as some have said) that uses a standard telephone type RJ-12 connector jack. After reviewing other installations of this battery monitor, I wanted to share my method, which adds at least one new option.įirst, here's an overview of the wiring.
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